One of the most majestic places to see along the Snake River is Hells Canyon. A ten-mile wide canyon, the deepest point at 7, 993 feet, almost 2,000 feet deeper than the Grand Canyon. It is the deepest river gorge in North America. Makes the Grand Canyon seem a little less grand doesn’t it?
What’s beautiful about Hells Canyon is the vast majority of it is inaccessible by road, keeping the crowds to the bare minimum. Here the silence, aside from the constant rush of the river as it unfurls through the canyon, is deafening.
There are so many ways to experience the canyon, but in my opinion the best is on the water.
Geology
Surrounded by Oregon and Idaho with the snake river carving its way through it, geologists believe that the canyon has only been forming for the past 6 million years. Seems like a pretty long time if you ask me. But in geologic terms that’s pretty young.
However, the rocks that make up the canyon have been around for much longer. Dating back around 300 million years, the oldest rocks can be found in the narrowest sections of the canyon.
Between 300 and 17 million years ago, through a series of collisions the Pacific Northwest was added to North America. This was followed by a significant amount of volcanic activity with massive floods of basalt lava, creating a high plateau. The snake river then went to work carving out the canyon that you see today.
The landscape is desert-like with only 13-16 inches of rain per year. The rocks have been worn by manganese oxide, making them black and shiny. There is also a significant amount of silt that has created perfect white sand beaches all along the river.
Hells Canyon History
The earliest known people of the Hells Canyon were the Nez Perce, or “we, the people.” The salmon and terrestrial wildlife, and mild weather was a draw for many.
Then in the early 1800’s Lewis and Clark blazed the trail across the western portion of the US in the Corps of Discovery Expedition.
In the 1860’s miners explored the area looking for gold, which turned out to be a bit of a bust. This was followed by the homesteading boom, where sheep farming became prominent. These sheep ended up spreading a pneumonia to the wild Bighorn sheep decimating the population.
The farmers at the time made a great income and basically had a monopoly on the market and were subsidized by the government. But once the wild population began to diminish the government stepped in and banned sheep farming in the area.
Wildlife
For wildlife lovers, this place is amazing. There is so much diversity between plant life and wildlife. Within a 10-mile stretch the elevation changes alone make for varied habitat for a plethora of wildlife.
Throughout the year, you can see up to 350 different species. So, depending on the time of year, you can see bald and golden eagles, mule deer, bighorn sheep and river otters.
Bird lovers should visit in the spring to see various song birds, owls, and others nesting and raising their young.
Explore the canyon in the winter for the chance to see some of the bigger terrestrial wildlife, like bighorn sheep, mountain goats, elk and the elusive cougar. No matter what time of year, there is plenty to see so bring your binoculars.
Take a jetboat ride
I personally think that the best way to truly experience how mighty Hells Canyon is on the water. Snake River Adventures is one of only 5 permit holders that can give tours up the Snake River.
These small boats are driven by experienced captains, with a ton of local knowledge. They will slow down and circle areas of interest and wildlife sightings.
I spent most of my trip up the river at the back of the boat, out in the open, the canyon zooming past me and the air blowing through my hair. It was heaven.
Based out of Idaho, Snake River Adventures offer ½-day ($130), full-day ($210), and group tours (pricing for a minimum of 20 people and varies depending on trip). They also partner with various cruise lines, including UnCruise, which is how I was able to visit this wildlife wonderland.
Check out my review of UnCruise here.
Stop and marvel at the cusp of three states
During your jetboat tour, you can stop at Garden Creek Ranch. A beautiful spot, with apricot and apple orchards open to the public.
You can enjoy a meal on their patio where you can marvel at the intersection between 3 states. Then continue up the Snake to the split, where the Salmon River veers off, before turning around and heading back.
Concluding thoughts
Hells Canyon, steeped in history and bursting with wildlife, is an outdoor lover’s dream and the perfect adventure. I could have stayed there forever, the rush of the water and the quiet of a world without traffic is the perfect way to refresh and recharge.
