São Jorge island is one of the Azorean islands and what most call a “hiker’s paradise.” It is remote, it is wild, and it can be a bit challenging to navigate. It is also a UNESCO world heritage site as a biosphere reserve. This post is meant to help you plan your trip to this lush and beautiful island in the Atlantic Ocean.
Basic Island Information
A small island in what is known as the central group of the Azores Island groups, nestled between Terceira and Pico. The island itself has a long spine of mountains through the middle that dive down to the ocean below where many of the towns can be seen (from above the island looks like a Toblerone bar).
The island has a population of around 9,500 with the main municipalities (no cities here) being Velas and Calhetta.
Two of the top prized items on the island are their wines and their cheese.
The best time to visit the island of Sao Jorge? In my opinion it’s September through October. Just beyond peak season of the summer months when the weather is still beautiful, lodging is a bit cheaper, and tourists are fewer.
How to get there
There are a couple of options to get to the island.
By Air
Most international flights fly into either Terceira or Sao Miguel and from there to the other islands in the archipelago. There are direct flights from Boston to Terceira as well as from Lisbon.
Connections from other major airports on the US east coast, such as Newark and New York City will most likely connect through Lisbon. If you are planning to fly into Terceira be prepared to wait for around 7 hours for your flight to Sao Jorge.
The main airline is SATA with TAP Portugal also have a couple of flights.
By Sea
There is a ferry service that run between the various islands and going, for example, between Sao Jorge and Pico is around 11 Euros per person.
This needs to be reserved in advance and if you are working with a company, like Azores Getaways, they can take care of this booking for you as part of your package. It is a good option to avoid waiting around for flights and in my opinion the easiest way to get between the islands.
The ferries are small and can fit around 12 cars, so if you have a car that you are taking between islands, keep this in mind when booking. This mode between islands is a great way to see the islands from another view and saves time in the airports.
Where to stay
The island, being as small as it is does not have a lot of options for places to stay. But what they do have is very unique and I highly recommend it. Here are a couple unique options (and both speak excellent English if needed).
Address: Caminho do Extremo, 9800-425 Urzelina, Portugal
Phone: +351 295 414 073
This is where we stayed during our week on Sao Jorge. It is only four yurts, nothing more, so book in advance. The bathroom is a separate building right next to the yurt, but this is no outhouse. These bathrooms are beautiful.
The owners of this property are extremely nice and helpful. On our arrival they took the time to go over best hikes, restaurant recommendations, and places we should see and labelled the map with them all.
There is also a full breakfast included of all freshly made, locally grown and mostly organic foods. The location is an active farm with the most variety of organically grown fruits on the island (and when they make fresh juice it’s the best thing you will ever taste).
Rates:
During the high season – 95-105 Euros
In low season -70 Euros.
Capacity:
Like I said, there are 4 yurts, which can hold 8 people with the potential of 4 extra beds (if you have kids). The yurts aren’t big so space can be limited.
It is also a bit sketchy to get to the parking, but most of the roads and driving on this island are it seems. So let go and enjoy the adventure!
This is another unique option and a fairly new property. Though we did not stay here, we did eat in their Indonesian/Portuguese style restaurant (and it was amazing – see below).
Address: Caminho de Cima da Ribeira do Nabo, 9800-404 Urzelina, Portugal
Phone: +351 295 249 862
These cabanas are built right in nature with huge picture windows and all wood. They are beautiful and I was a little sad that we didn’t get to experience them.
They have two different types of cabanas, the T1 and the studio. The T1 can accommodate up to 4 people, is 50 square meters in size with a deck that is 25 square meters. With this option you can have either a king bed or two separate beds.
The studio can accommodate up to 3 people and is 33 square meters in size with a 22 square meter deck and has the same bed options.
Rates:
In the high season (July 16th – September 15th) you can expect to pay anywhere from 140-230 Euros depending on number of people and accommodation type.
In the low season (January 18th – April 30th; November 1st-December 12th) you can expect to pay between 60-150 Euros, again depending on the number of people (the more guests there are the more it costs) and chosen accommodation.
Capacity:
T1 style accommodates 4 people
Studio style accommodates 3 people
What to eat
There are not a significant number of options for places to eat and they all need a reservation ahead of time, with the exception of Restaurant Acors, but they all use local products. Sometimes you can call that morning and get a reservation for that evening but if you know where you would like to eat it is recommended to just reserve the places for each night of your stay.
Also make sure to at least try the delicious cheese while you are there. There is something special about São Jorge cheese and is so totally worth it.
The owners of the properties can also help you reserve places if the restaurants can only speak Portuguese.
Restaurant Acors
Address: Largo da Matriz – Velas Ilha de São Jorge, 9800-551 Velas, Portugal
Phone: +351 295 432 463
We ate here a couple of times, because it’s good and it’s the only one you don’t necessarily need a reservation for. Dinner starts at 7pm (as is the case with most of the restaurants), so the earlier you eat the more likely you are to get a reservation.
Here, without a reservation you have two main options, eat outside or eat at the bar (we did both and they are both good options). Reservations are needed if you want to eat in the main part of the restaurant (which to me seems unnecessary).
They have a good variety of seafood and meats and it’s affordable. We had the seafood for two, which was good, but I had better elsewhere, and I also had their steak which was delicious. The appetizers are also definitely worth checking out.
Cabanas da Viscondessa
Address: Caminho de Cima da Ribeira do Nabo, 9800-404 Urzelina, Portugal
Phone: +351 295 249 862
This is the place you can also stay that I mentioned above but if you call them you can reserve dinner as well. The owner is originally from mainland Portugal and his wife is Indonesian and is the main cook in the restaurant (hence the Indonesian style cuisine).
This option is a bit fancier with smaller plates. You will pay a similar amount as Restaurant Acor but you will have a smaller meal. However, it is completely worth it. The food was incredible! The tuna tartare, crab cakes, and the special of the day, octopus were all delicious and perfectly prepared.
And the deserts were sinful.
O Amilcar
Address: Faja Ouvidor Norte Grande, Fajã Do Ouvidor, Ilha De São Jorge, Portugal
Phone: +351 295 417 448
We got lucky and were able to eat here without a reservation, even though the place was packed. This is the perfect spot to eat either before or after a swim in the natural pools “Simão Dias” (see info below) and one of the best restaurants we ate at during out time on the island.
The wait staff carry a large board of their specials around for you to check out plus their extensive menu. Our waiter also brought along a book of the fish of the Azores, which really helped us identify what they offered.
Now I don’t usually get tuna, because it is not always sustainably sourced, and I also really don’t like it fully cooked but let me tell you this was the best tuna I have ever had.
It is the perfect spot to eat when in Fajã Do Ouvidor.
Tasca Zé do Porto
Also located in Velas, you definitely need a reservation for this one. They also don’t really speak English, so if you make a reservation for that night snap a photo of their menu (because it’s small and changes daily) and go grab a beer at Restaurante Acors and work on the translations.
This is mostly a seafood restaurant with a fish market right next door. The seafood is extremely fresh (on all the Azores Islands) and generally caught that day. You can get limpets, huge shrimp or a variety of fish and all are delicious. Though a bit more pricey than other places.
Getting around
There are a couple options for getting around the island. But let me start by saying these are the scariest roads I have ever been on. They are steep, incredibly narrow and switchback constantly to get you from the mountains to the sea.
I felt like I was taking my life into my own hands every time we drove around there. It was unsettling to say the least.
Car rental
Once you arrive on the island, I would recommend getting a rental car. It is by far the best way to get around. Though there are buses available and several taxis, these are not convenient, and taxis are not cheap. If you book through Azores getaways, they will create a package for you that includes the car rental and is actually really affordable. If you book with Azores Getaways (and no I am not an affiliate for them I just really love that company) they will take care of getting your car reserved.
Otherwise there are a few car rental companies in Velas at the airport and at the ferry port. The three below are the most popular.
*Pro Tip: when booking a car make sure to put your flight information in the booking. If you do not and your flight is delayed they may give your car away because they will assume you are not coming. This happened to a couple in front of us in line in Sao Miguel. Lucky for us Azores Getaways put in our flight information and we even ended up with an upgrade!
Also, you must book this in advance! You cannot just arrive off the plane or off the ferry and ask to rent a car. They will all turn you away.
Phone: +351 295 432 800
Located at both the airport and ferry port, this is the company we had and they were very kind and helpful.
Phone: +351 295 432 141
Phone: +351 912 533 239
Tour group
There are several tour companies you can travel with for specific excursions on the island, such as hiking, visiting the cheese making area, visiting the coffee plantation, etc. Once again I recommend using Azores Getaways to help you book those excursions but there are other companies such as Get Your Guide, Aventour Adventure Tours, and São Jorge Taxi Tours.
Bus
I saw one large bus driving around the island, down some of those tiny sketchy roads and I wondered what the hell a bus was doing on the island. But I would be remiss if I didn’t include it here.
There is public transportation available that goes to some of the towns. It may not be the best option, as there are taxi services available, but if you are a bit stuck and maybe need something a bit more budget friendly this might be ideal for you.
Best Things to Do
Fajã da Caldeira
Considered one of the best hikes on the island (according to our yurt owners) this Fajã has a large lagoon that is the only place on the island where a specific clam is harvested.
The hike down is lovely and one of the few moderate hikes on the island (all the rest of considered hard/difficult due to the elevation gains and losses) and you are rewarded with this pretty little summer town.
There are two places to eat in this area, it was recommended that we do not eat at O Borges (we were told the food is terrible) but to eat at the other restaurant. This is the first one you come upon when you do the hike down anyway.
The little café style restaurant is a big hit with the locals and hikers alike with few seats but cold beer and good bar food, to me it takes a good hike to a great one, just because of this.
This town is also a getaway for those that enjoy surfing, with a few places to stay. There are no cars, all the residents get around on ATVs. But it is the perfect day trip and a must do.
Hiking info:
Distance – 10km one way
Difficulty – Moderate
Start in the Eolic Park of Serra do Topo, passing by Caldeira de Santo Cristo and finishing at Fajã dos Cubres. From there you can either hike back, call a taxi or prior to hiking you could have left your car at the end and taken a taxi to the starting point.
Personally, we park in Serra do Topo, hiked down, had some lunch and checked out the town and then hiked back up the way we came to our car. This is challenging but not as challenging as the other hikes on the island.
Café Nunes
Located in Fajã dos Vimes is the only coffee plantation in Portugal. You can head there for a free tour (which will most likely be in Portuguese unless you get the daughter of the plantation) and a couple delicious espressos (for less than a Euro a piece).
This area is also the starting point for a hike that can take you as far as the Caldeira de Santo Cristo, if you want to do a multiday hike. Otherwise, you can hike an out and back from Fajã dos Vimes – Lourais – Fajã de São João. It is 9.7km each way and the hardest hike (in my opinion) that I did on the island.
But it is also the most beautiful and my favorite. You will cross a suspension bridge and several waterfalls along the way and beautiful forest. There is a café in Fajã de São João but you may need to check ahead of time as it was not open when we arrived (and it’s the only option in town).
So, bring some snacks and lots of water!
Piscina Natural “Simão Dias”
This was a real treat and a must do on the island. Located in Fajã Do Ouvidor, a well-marked and very short trail takes you down to a large natural swimming area that is surrounding by high walls of volcanic rock and a volcanic rock wall facing the sea that keeps the crashing waves from getting in.
There are no change rooms and no bathrooms, so keep that in mind. But there is a built-in ladder to get in the water and several spots to pull out onto the rocks and enjoy the incredibly beautiful area. Then you can head to O Amilcar for lunch and a beer.
It’s the perfect way to spend a hiking rest day and rejuvenate those sore muscles.
Concluding Thoughts
This island is not for those looking for everything to be easy and handed to you. But the people, the nature, the food and the hiking make this an adventure travelers dream.
So, if you want epic views and some of the best hiking in the Azores. This is the perfect island for you. And from there you can hop the ferry to Pico Island and try your strength hiking the highest mountain in Portugal.
Heading to the Azores? Make sure to grab a copy of my guidebook The Azores: A guide for hikers.
