Nepal is a dream destination for many adventure seekers, including myself. It is a place that I have been dying to visit for a long time. The city of Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is where many come to start their journey into the Himalayas.
Whether you plan to hike to Everest Base Camp or visit Chitwan National Park, you will likely spend a couple of days in Kathmandu. This chaotic city is extremely safe to wander around and wander you should. Some of the best places to visit in Kathmandu, like the famous Monkey Temple and the Boudhanath stupa, are must see sites while you wait for your permits to come through and something you shouldn’t miss out on.
Best time to visit Kathmandu
The best time to visit is October through December when temperatures are a bit cooler, the air is a bit clearer and it is outside of the monsoon season. I was there in December and can say that the weather was perfect, where I didn’t need a jacket most times (though you will find the Nepalese all bundled up like it’s the middle of winter). You will experience great fall weather if you visit during this time and it’s also the perfect time to go trekking (minus December, it’s getting pretty cold in some areas, like Lo Manthang, at this point).
Where to stay in Kathmandu
I stayed in two different hotels in Kathmandu. The Baber Mahal Vilas and the Holiday Inn Express Naxal. I picked them for their free breakfast and comfort. There are a lot of budget friendly places to stay. Many people stay in Thamel, a popular spot for backpackers and other tourists.
There are a ton of homestay options, where you pay a small fee to stay with someone who typically will make you breakfast and some will also provide dinner as well. These are typically the most budget friendly options and a good way to give back to the people because the money goes directly to them. I am an IHG member and the familiarity of a place in such an unfamiliar city helped me as an introvert unwind in the evenings and reset for adventure the next day and is why I chose to spend most of my time in Kathmandu in the Holiday Inn Express.
Restaurant suggestions
There are a ton of places to eat in Kathmandu, these are just a few suggestions to get you started. I enjoyed the food at all of these places. Make sure to try the momo and dal bhat, two very traditional Nepalese foods that you can get anywhere.
Somewhere in Kathmandu
Address: Kathmandu 44600, Nepal
This cute little cafe has great momo and chicken fried rice. It also has a good selection of coffees and tea (though I recommend getting masala tea, because that is the typical Nepali thing to drink). The cafe also has a shelf of great books to read, which totally got me. You can use this spot as a work space and there are big windows opening onto the street to do some people and stray dog watching.
The one negative I will say is people are allowed to smoke in here and it totally ruined it for me as I tried to enjoy my dinner while breathing in second hand smoke (YUCK).
Jimbu Thakali By Capital Grill
Address: Chaata Ganesh, Next to, Gahana Pokhari Marg, Kathmandu 44600, Nepal
They have a really good selection of different Nepalese foods, including dal bhat, though they call it something else it is definitely the same thing. I ate here twice I liked it so much and ordered the same thing each time.
Bodhi Books and Bakes
Address: Tangal Marg, Kathmandu 45310, Nepal
This was my favorite spot and I didn’t even discover it until almost my last night there. The walls are covered in books to check out and the ambience is that of a very cool coffee shop. But it serves good food too with a fairly large selection. It’s a popular spot for some of the younger Nepali locals and definitely worth a visit.
Hankook Sarang Korean Restaurant
Address: Gahana Pokhari Marg, Kathmandu 44600, Nepal
If you want something other than Nepali food, check out this great Korean restaurant. I had the pork bulgogi and it was perfect and came with a ton of different sides. They also do hotpot if you are coming with a group.
Tips for getting around
The traffic here is insane and the pedestrians do not move out of the way for anyone. I found it easy to walk everywhere, though it always took longer than I expected. If you don’t want to walk they have a service very similar to Uber called Pathao, where you can get a car/taxi or a motorbike for good rates.
Be careful crossing the road, I recommend going with the crowd as they cross because people do not stop for you unless you force it. Every time I crossed the road I felt like I was taking my life into my own hands and it was questionable if I would make it across in one piece.
Best places to visit in Kathmandu
Garden of dreams
This is a popular place for tourists and an ideal place to go to step away from the traffic and crush of people. The entry price is 400 rupees for foreigners but there are beautiful gardens right in the heart of the city of Kathmandu. There is a small restaurant inside, but you can just go in and walk around the different area or it’s a great place to bring a book and sit on one of the many benches around and wile away the afternoon.
Keep in mind that there are often people outside of the garden of dreams waiting for tourists to try and convince them to let them show them the city so they can “practice their English,” which is impeccable by the way. They’re generally super nice and will ask you a bunch of questions and walk with you a ways, trying to convince you to come see something with them, but if you just say no that you have other plans, they will tell you to have a nice day and will leave. They’re generally pretty harmless and from my experience usually pretty young too.
Patan durbar square
There are three squares in Kathmandu representing the three kingdoms that make up this city. Patan durbar square is a beautiful place and was my favorite of the three. This is home to both ancient temples and the royal family. It is also one of the major tourist attractions of the city, for young Nepalese and foreign tourists alike. It’s a popular spot to hang out and is surrounded by shops and restaurants, so once you have taken in the incredible architecture, you can grab some momos for a snack.
Pashupatinath temple
Located close to the airport in Kathmandu and next to the Bagmati River are the ancient temples of Pashupatinath temple. This is where those who practice the Hindu religion go to be cremated and where many Hindu rituals occur. It’s a beautiful place to visit at night, when the whole area is lit up and because Kathmandu is so safe you do not have to worry about when you visit.
It is considered one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Hindus and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is also the oldest temple in Kathmandu and only followers of Hinduism are allowed to enter the main temple, but foreigners can visit any of the other buildings. The entry fee for foreigners is 1000 rupees.
Boudhanath stupa
The largest stupa of all the religious sites in Nepal is Boudhanath stupa. This is one of the most popular temples to visit and one of the best things to do in Kathmandu. It is located on the ancient trade route between Tibet and India. This is one of the famous places in Kathmandu because it houses the remains of Buddha and is considered the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet.
It is also another UNESCO world heritage site, one of many within Kathmandu if you haven’t noticed.
Swayambhunath stupa (AKA monkey temple)
Located in the Kathmandu valley, this UNESCO world heritage site is the perfect place to go to see the city from above and experience the chaos of the macaques. It is always one of the top places to visit and also one of the most visited places in the city, by foreigners and locals alike. On a clear day you can see the entire city surrounded by the mountains, but if I am being honest, this doesn’t happen that often because there is still quite a bit of smog here, though the new governor has made huge strides towards cleaning up the city and it shows.
The entry fee for foreigners is 200 rupees and there are a ton of stairs to reach the temple, but its worth it. It was my favorite place and a truly unique experience. I recommend grabbing a coffee on the rooftop overlooking the stupa, it’s the perfect spot to take in the monkey and human chaos below. The people begging and selling items along the stairway up to the stupa are extremely pushy, so be aware.
Kathmandu durbar square
A short walk from the monkey temple is Kathmandu durbar square. This is another one of the main attractions within Kathmandu and Kathmandu’s royal palace. I do not recommend visiting during business hours, as it is also an area of local government and they will enforce payment to enter, which is 1000 rupees for foreigners! If you come in the evening, you can often walk around the square for free.
Concluding Thoughts
For many the main reason Kathmandu is such a popular destination is not for the city itself but for places like Mount Everest and for nature lovers looking to go trekking in nearby areas. It’s a starting point to some of the most incredible adventures in the world. But it is also a must-visit destination for the many holy Hindu and Buddhist sites that are of significant importance to many pilgrims of the Hindu and Buddhist teachings.
After exploring this city, make sure you head out to Chitwan National Park, a destination for all nature lovers to try and glimpse the Royal Bengal Tiger, one-horned rhinoceros and more species of birds than you can count.
