The Upper Mustang area is one of the most unique areas in Nepal. It is not an easy place to get to, but is well worth braving the terrible roads to the remote location of Lo Manthang village.
The people who call this area home live a hard life. Caring for a few livestock, heating their homes with cattle dung, being completely isolated during the winter months with minimal heat, a hole in the ground for a toilet, and water that they have to fetch from the other side of town to keep their water jugs full in winter.
It’s a tough way of life, but they are also extremely kind, helpful and positive.
Our homestay guide, Tashi and his wife, showed me that. Tashi went with us to collect samples for a study I was doing on snow leopards, hiking up ridges, visiting farms, and leading the way. His insight was priceless.
When chatting with him, he told me how the area was changing. That younger generations didn’t want to farm, that they wanted to do more, they now employed tractors and purchased more food from outside the town. They give tours and cater to tourists who come to hike this incredible area.
I asked him if he was happy about these changes, since it was changing their way of life, and he told me that he was very happy with these changes because their lives were so hard and the change has made things much easier for them. They don’t have to fight so hard for survival now, their children are more educated and healthy, and Tashi, at least, loves to meet the new people who come to his village.
As tourists, I think we all worry about changing peoples lives to suit our needs and expectations, but sometimes change can also be a positive thing. It can mean prosperity in a place as harsh as Lo Manthang and I think that can be taken as a positive.
Visiting this region, is an unforgettable experience for so many reasons and if you hope to visit this area of upper Mustang, this what to expect.
History of Lo Manthang
The walled city of Upper Mustang is still run by a monarchy system, though it is less prevalent today compared to what it was many years ago. The royal palace is still a main feature within the city itself, though the royal family no longer lives there. They live in Kathmandu. It is known as the Forbidden Kingdom, because prior to 1992, foreigners were not allowed to visit.
The main religion still practiced here today is Tibetan buddhism and there is evidence of old monasteries surrounding the area. The only monastery now in use is within the walls of the capital city of Lo Manthang.
Much of the old way of life still exists here, but change has been coming with electricity, solar power, and the use of tractors to plow their fields. Though many people still have livestock and heat their homes with cow dung, this sacred place that once seemed forgotten by time has made small steps to a slightly easier way of life.
How to get to the Forbidden Kingdom
To get to Lo Manthang you need a special permit, well, two actually. One Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit and the Restricted Area Permit (RAP). The cost of the permit from ACAP is around $25-30 USD while the restricted area permit is around $500 USD, if you are more than one person. The new requirements are that you must have a guide and there must be at least 2 foreigners.
If you are traveling solo, then you may need to apply for a ghost permit and that will cost you $1000 USD. It’s a bit more complicated and not guaranteed, so if you can go with a group or at least one other foreigner, it will be much easier to acquire the permits you need.
The area is beyond the Himalayan mountains and is part of the Tibetan plateau. Mostly flat, at around 3,800 meters (12,500 feet) it can be a challenge to access in the winter. I would recommend renting a four wheel jeep if you plan to drive, but the roads are terrible and they have their own way of driving here, so if you can, I would get yourself a driver who knows the roads and can get you there safely.
Best time to visit Upper Mustang
This area is high altitude desert and a harsh environment in the winter months. Though climate change has caused some interesting impacts to this region, bringing less snow to the area in the winter and warmer temperatures, they are now able to grow a larger variety of crops, including apples.
The best time to visit is April and June, before monsoon season, when the flowers are blooming and everything is green. During the winter months, the trees are bare and the ground and the surrounding area are all brown.
The temperatures in the winter also dip down to around -20 Celsius at night, and many places do not have a heating system, so you need to pile on the thick (and honestly wonderful) blankets they provide and layer up. Spring and summer are much more comfortable and access is easier.
Where to stay in Lo Manthang
If you want to truly experience the play stay with the local peoples. Do a homestay. There are a couple of hotels within the city, but if you are coming during the winter, many places are closed as a significant portion of the population leave the area during winter for places like Pokhara and Kathmandu. It is also significantly more expensive to stay there in the winter.
If you want to have a little more of familiarity, you can find room rates at the various hotels on places like Hotels.com. For home stays, it is more of a challenge to find. You may need to ask around when you arrive and see what is available. The area is, however, very popular during the Tiji festival, so if you are coming up around this time you may want to book places in advance. This isn’t necessarily a tourist hotspot, but places are limited, so they can still fill up fast.
I stayed with a wonderful couple, the husband, Tashi, was a wealth of knowledge and extremely helpful in guiding us to various areas and showing us his home.
Things to do in Upper Mustang
Experience the Tiji festival
This is a Tibetan Buddhist festival stands for prayer for world peace. It started over 300 years ago to celebrate the victory of good over evil by Dorje Jono, who is considered a deity who fought for good and defeated evil to bring prosperity to the region.
Every May, the monks of Chhode monastery perform the special Vajrakila ritual and lasts for 3-days that are filled with prayer, chants and dancing.
Visit the ancient monasteries
Head out of the city to take in the beautiful scenery on the walk to the decorative caves that once housed Buddhists monks, but these days are home to snow leopards and sheep. As you walk alongside the river the sheer cliffs above hide amazing wildlife, so bring your binoculars.
On the way back, stop at the hot springs and spend the rest of the day relaxing in the sun.
Go trekking
If you are looking to get in some real trekking days, there are a ton of hikes around this area. When things are in bloom you can take your time and truly enjoy the natural beauty of the area, understanding why the people of Lo Manthang continue to call this home.
Take on the 18 days, Upper Mustang Trek and see an incredible diversity of scenery, going all the way from Jonsom to Lo Manthang and truly see Upper Mustang.
On the way, make sure to visit Muktinath Temple, one of the most important temples in the region that is both a Hindu and Buddhist temple. Bathe in the 108 water taps surrounding the temple and walk through the Buddhist garden. It is a must stop along the way to the Forbidden Kingdom.
Concluding Thoughts
The area of Upper Mustang is truly special and one that not many foreigners get the chance to see. When people come to Nepal, they often head to the Everest (Sagarmatha) Region or plan to hike the Annapurna Circuit, but Nepal has so many unique regions to explore that you wouldn’t fully experience Nepal without seeing these places.
From Everest Base Camp to Chitwan National Park to the Forbidden Kingdom of Lo Manthang. Nepal is truly an adventurers dream destination.
