Long Island, in Nova Scotia’s Digby County, is generally not on one’s travel radar. But it’s worth the visit. And I’m not just saying that because I’m from the area. The small fishing villages, incredible whale watching and fresh seafood should be enough to lure you in. But if not the hike to Balancing Rock will seal the deal.
Following the road known as Digby Neck out of town all the way to the end. There is a small car ferry there that ($7) will shuttle you across the channel to Long Island. The first of two islands. The ferry itself runs on the half hour on the way over and the hour on the way back. But they basically just keep going back and forth throughout the day.
A short drive from the ferry brings you to a small parking area on your left.
Balancing rock is quoted as “200 million years in the making.” As the supercontinent of Pangea started breaking up, creating the continents we know today, lava welled up. This lava formed 3 units, or layers, of Basalt Rock. The Balancing Rock is a part of the oldest, lowest and most resistant basalt unit. Once the lava stopped flowing and cooled down it cracked and formed the column-like structure.
So how do you get to view this iconic rock? Volunteers maintain a 1.7 km long trail and it’s 235 steps down to the viewing platforms.
Stepping onto the trail you are immediately surrounded by quiet. The smell of Christmas trees assaulting your senses periodically. The trees and shrubs themselves are a brilliant green. Nearby, there is a myriad of birds going about their daily lives and you can hear the leaves rustling in the breeze. It’s extremely peaceful. And surprisingly not overcrowded.
The trail itself is easy, aside from the stairs, flat with sections of crushed gravel and sections of sandy soil. The stairs down to the platform are abnormally close together, with poor footing, making it the most awkward descent of 235 steps.
The area opens up to two platforms with views of St Mary’s Bay and of course the reason you went there in the first place. Balancing Rock. The cliffs on either side of the platforms show signs of wear from the weather and the constant beat of the ocean. You can almost imagine that at one time there were multiple balancing rocks.
For the longest time this was not considered a tourist destination. It was something local fisherman noticed during there days at sea. There is one story that a group of fishermen tied a rope around the rock to try and topple it over, without success.
It is kind of amazing that this thing is still standing. From the platform it looks like it will fall into the sea at the slightest chance of a breeze, but it has been standing sentinel for years. Not bothered by storms, high tides or crazy fishermen.
Once you have had your fill of the fantastic views and worked up an appetite make sure to stop by the café back on the mainland. There you can get lobster or scallop rolls or the Acadian dish, rapure pie.
As someone who grew up eating rapure pie for most big holidays, I can attest that it’s amazing. Traditionally made with beef, chicken, and salt pork the meat is mixed with a kind of potato slurry and baked in the oven to create an amazing “pie.” The café’s pie is worth foregoing the seafood for. Or you can get one of each. I won’t judge.
It’s a nice way to spend the day exploring the area. You can easily take a whale watching tour, hike to Balancing Rock and enjoy a good meal in one day. A place where you can explore nature and see magnificent wildlife, such as this, really does deserve its spot on the map.
