“Every once in a while, in the middle of an ordinary life, love gives us a fairytale.” – Unknown
When you think of the Czech Republic you automatically think of Prague and all the things you can do there, even visiting Prague in winter. But in the south Bohemian region of the Czech Republic, situated on the Vltava River is the town of Český Krumlov. Built around a 13th century castle, not much has changed in this town. Becoming a UNESCO world heritage site in 1992, it was one of the first places in the Czech Republic to achieve this designation.
This beautiful fairytale city (if you can call it a city) has small cobble-stoned streets surrounded by colorful buildings and the imposing figure of the main castle above. You could spend several days just walking the streets of Český Krumlov, and it’s a great place if travelling to Český Krumlov with kids. But if you only have one day there are a couple of things you should definitely check out.
Miroslav Paral Art Gallery
If you are into dark tourism this may be something to put on your list. Miroslav Paral managed to create something that tends to make people uncomfortable. As one comment on Trip Advisor said, “It frightened the children.”
Located just before the entrance to the main castle this is not your traditional art gallery. You can find the exhibit underground sprinkled throughout various caverns and tunnels. From mandibles (bottom jaw) for wash basins, finger paper clips, and deformed creatures having sex.
Main Castle
Not only is the castle over 700 years old, it is also the second largest castle in the Czech Republic. The castle was passed down through the Rosenburg family. The castle itself is an imposing figure situated above the city, watching sentinel over its people.
If you have the opportunity stick around until the sun goes down to see the castle lit up in all its glory. The castle area itself is one of the largest in central Europe and is more of a complex. It is made up of forty buildings and palaces around 5 castle courts and a castle park situated on seven hectares.
You can take a tour of the castle to learn more about the various sections. We took the Czech tour, mainly because it was cheaper than the English tour. I do not speak any Czech but my boyfriend is Czech so he translated for me.
Bear Moat
Surrounding the main castle is a moat. And without knowing it can be surprising to see brown bears living in the moat. Bears have been a part of the Rosenburg family and have been thought to have been living at the castle since the 16th century. They began living in the moat in 1707.
There are currently 4 bears living in the moat between the castle’s first and second courtyards. Naturally the initial bears have died but over the years various aristocrats have donated bears.
More recently renovations were made to the area to provide more appropriate living conditions for the bears. With trees, lagoons and toys to enrich the bear’s lives. You can regularly see them munching on vegetables or playing with barrels in their lagoons.
There is even a festival just for the bears. This is a time of year when outsiders are allowed in the enclosure. In the morning children bring gifts for the bears and put it under the tree. This is all monitored by the bear keeper to ensure the bears are not given anything inappropriate. After all is set out the bears are released and allowed to enjoy honey, apples, and Christmas cookies.
Kids can also listen to talks by the keeper to learn more about the bears. Or you can just hang out and enjoy watching the bears from above the moat itself.
Eating in the Český Krumlov
I can’t talk about a town without talking about the food. There are several places to eat in this town and a lot of these places are hidden in caverns of stone. In these secretive spots you can get pork knee, fruit dumplings and fried cheese.
You should also make sure to grab a trdelník on your way up to the castle. This amazing pastry is made in front of you. Dough wrapped around rotating rods and then rolled in cinnamon sugar. It is the most delicious pastry and a true Czech classic. Though I am told the literal translation is “Czech Dummy.”
Located just south of Prague, Český Krumlov is a great day trip to get out of the city and experience the Czech culture at its finest. Though many recommend that if you have the time, take in the sites around the Vltava river over two days.
Eat great food, drink slivovice (fruit based distilled liquor), and wander the fairytale cobbled streets, ducking into stores, cafes and galleries that catch your eye as you go by.
