The Azorean Islands are a bit of an enigma to most. When you tell someone, you are heading to the Azores you tend to get blank stares in response, followed by “Where is that?”
This hidden gem consists of 9 islands, each with their own special features. Ponta Delgada, on Sao Miguel, is the most up-and-coming town in the Azores, but Furnas will make you feel like you have entered Jurassic park. This town is full of volcanic activity and they use it to their advantage.
Before you even enter this tiny town in the eastern part of the island, you see the ground steaming and it doesn’t smell good. But smell aside, it’s one of the most unique places on the island and an absolute must see.
Caldeiras
Furnas is known for it’s active volcanic waters and has generations of families that utilize these areas to cook a particular meal, the codizo. To see this method at its finest head to Caldeira das Furnas.
This hot spot of volcanic activity has various holes where large cooking pots filled with various root vegetables and meats are lowered, covered and cooked for 5-8 hours. What makes this special is the unique flavor added by the mineral rich and Sulphur laden steam rising up from the ground.
Families arrive very early here for their chance at the best cooking spots. There is a fee for entry, but you can spend the day tasting some of the various foods, like corn, that has been cooked in this special place. Then take a walk around the lake watching the steam rising from the backdrop.
Codizo
If you visit Furnas, you have to try the codizo. There are several places to get it but one of the best spots is the Terra Nostra hotel, home of the Terra Nostra Garden.
It’s a bit more on the fancy side, more fine dining but no more expensive than anywhere else. They start you off with bread and then bring you a platter of meats and vegetables, explaining what each item is, and a pot of rice.
Finally, to top it off is the juice that they pour out of teapot directly all over everything. The juice is what makes the meal. It has all the flavor infused from cooking in the volcanic ground.
Not only do you get a great meal, by eating there you also get free admission into the Terra Nostra Garden.
Terra Nostra Garden
This garden has been around for over 200 years. Immediately upon entry there is a large pool filled with an orange water, surrounded by smaller, more secretive pools of a milky green water. Hot springs.
Make sure you bring a bathing suit that you don’t care if it gets ruined because you will be orange by the time you are finished. These hot springs are so rich in minerals that your skin will be left smooth and silky.
After your dip in the hot springs, you are free to roam the vast gardens, each area themed with plants from around the world.
Peaceful and beautiful the scent of flowers wafting in the air is a nice reprieve from the stench of the immense volcanic activity that Furnas is known for.
Sao Miguel is full of the most unique and magical thermal springs, each different from the other.
Mineral thermal springs
All over the town of Furnas, and particularly in one central area, are Sulphuric pools gurgling up from the ground steaming and burping out a scent reminiscent of rotten eggs.
Around those gurgling pools are taps built into the stone with water to taste and use as you see fit. Each tap with its own “flavor profile” of rich minerals. Its not for everyone, the taste to me was pretty terrible and some stronger than others but it’s unique and worth trying.
You may even see some locals boiling a sac of vegetables and eggs in one of these active pools for a unique twist on a picnic lunch.
Concluding Thoughts
The Azores are one of the most incredible island chains I have ever experienced. Each island offers a plethora of different activities with a tropical backdrop.
Being of volcanic origin it’s only natural that some areas would continue to be active and provide such interesting traditions and health benefits. Something you can’t easily find anywhere else in the world.
For more on Sao Miguel make sure to check out my post on the hiking Sao Miguel’s highest peak.
Heading to the Azores? Make sure to grab a copy of my guidebook The Azores: A guide for hikers.
