The Azores Islands are a bit of an enigma to most. When you tell someone, you are heading to the Azores you tend to get blank stares in response, followed by “Where is that?” But trust me, it is one of the best places to visit and a great option if you are looking to avoid some of the major tourist hot spots.
This hidden gem consists of 9 islands, each with their own special features. Ponta Delgada, on the island of São Miguel, is the most up-and-coming town in the Azores, but the Furnas valley will make you feel like you have entered Jurassic park. This town is full of geothermal activity and they use it to their advantage and it’s an incredibly unique place to visit.
Before you even enter this tiny town in the eastern part of the island, you see the ground steaming and it doesn’t smell good. But smell aside, it’s one of the most unique places on the island and an absolute must see.
Best time to visit Furnas
There is a rainy season in the Azores, so the best time is during the summer months, but the great thing about the Azores is it is never overwhelmingly busy. I personally prefer the shoulder seasons of the spring and fall. In the fall, you may encounter a passing shower here and there, but overall the weather couldn’t be better. Sao Miguel is becoming a more popular spot for cruise ships to stop, but it is still far and away from other major cruise ship hubs (and I personally hope it stays that way).
Getting to Furnas
Most people stay in either Ponta Delgada or Riberia Grande when they visit and take a day trip to Furnas. There are some public transport options but they are not as reliable as other destinations. The easiest way to get around is getting a rental car because it is an easy island to fully explore without relying on questionable public transportation.
Top things to do in Furnas
Visit the Caldeiras
Furnas is known for it’s active volcanic waters and has generations of families that utilize these areas to cook a particular meal, the cozido. The best way to see this method at its finest head to Caldeiras das Furnas.
This hot spot of volcanic activity is next to Furnas Lake and has various holes where large cooking pots filled with various root vegetables and meats are lowered, covered and cooked for 5-8 hours. What makes this special is the unique flavor added by the mineral rich and Sulphur laden steam rising up from the ground.
Families arrive very early here for their chance at the best cooking spots. There is a fee for entry, but you can spend the day tasting some of the various foods, like corn, that has been cooked in this special place. Then take a walk around the lake watching the steam rising from the backdrop. This is definitely one of the main attractions in Furnas.
Try Cozido
If you visit Furnas, you have to try the famous cozido. There are several places to get it, including many local restaurants, but one of the best spots is the Terra Nostra Garden hotel, home of the Terra Nostra Park.
It’s a bit more on the fancy side, more fine dining but no more expensive than anywhere else. This traditional dish starts off with bread and then they bring you a platter of meats and vegetables, explaining what each item is, and a pot of rice.
Finally, to top it off is the juice that they pour out of teapot directly all over everything. The juice is what makes the meal. It has all the flavor infused from cooking in the volcanic ground.
Not only do you get a great meal, by eating there you also get free admission into the Terra Nostra Garden.
Visit Terra Nostra Garden
This garden has been around for over 200 years. Immediately upon entry there is a large pool filled with an orange water, surrounded by more secretive smaller pools of a milky green hot water. The water temperature ranges between 35 and 40 degrees Celsius (95 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit).
Make sure you bring a bathing suit that you don’t care if it gets ruined because you will be orange by the time you are finished. These volcanic hot springs are so rich in minerals that your skin will be left smooth and silky.
After your dip in the thermal pools, you are free to roam the beautiful botanical gardens, each area themed with plants from around the world.
Peaceful and beautiful the scent of flowers wafting in the air is a nice reprieve from the stench of the immense volcanic activity that Furnas is known for and is one of the most beautiful gardens. It’s one of the best things to spend a full day doing.
Sao Miguel is full of the most unique and magical thermal springs, each different from the other.
Mineral thermal springs
All over the town of Furnas, and particularly in the center of town, are Sulphuric pools gurgling up from the ground steaming and burping out a scent reminiscent of rotten eggs.
Around those gurgling pools are taps built into the stone with water to taste and use as you see fit. Each tap with its own “flavor profile” of rich minerals. Its not for everyone, the taste to me was pretty terrible and some stronger than others but it’s unique and worth trying.
You may even see some locals boiling a sac of vegetables and eggs in one of these active pools for a unique twist on a picnic lunch.
Concluding Thoughts
The Azores are one of the most incredible island chains I have ever experienced. Each island offers a plethora of different activities with a tropical backdrop.
Being of volcanic origin it’s only natural that some areas would continue to be active and provide such interesting traditions and health benefits. Something you can’t easily find anywhere else in the world.
If you have extra time you should definitely check out the surrounding area, including Lagoa de Fogo (or Lake of Fire), which was my favorite spot on the island. For more on São Miguel island make sure to check out my guide to Sao Miguel.
Heading to the Azores? Make sure to grab a copy of my guidebook The Azores: A guide for hikers.
