For many, the Lake of the Clouds Hut, in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, is a bucket list item. There are 3 huts along the Presidential Traverse Trail run by the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC). The Mt. Madison hut, next to Mt. Madison, naturally, the Mizpah hut next to Mount Jefferson, and the Lake of the Clouds Hut, next to Mt. Washington.
The huts are staffed by a group that keeps things organized, cooks all the food, ensures there is enough toilet paper, and runs supplies up and down the mountain. This amazing group of people trek the 4,000+ foot elevation to bring supplies to and from the huts. This is no small feat.
With their ex-frame packs, they strap on boxes of food and other supplies and schlep them up the mountain. So, make sure to tip generously before you leave. These people work super hard and obviously love what they are doing.
It is highly recommended that you book your stay, at any of the huts, in advance. Especially Lake of the Clouds. They tend to be booked solid for the majority of the summer. When I stayed in September there were still a few spots open, but that was a Friday, after a holiday, and towards the end of the season.
At about a mile and a half past Mount Washington, if you are coming from Mt. Madison, the hut is nestled into the side of the mountain next to a good-sized lake. Though $145 a night, if you are not an AMC member, it was completely worth it. If you make it to the hut by 6, you will get dinner and a little skit put on by the hut crew.
Unfortunately, for me, I rolled in around 9pm and missed the whole thing. But they still took the time to throw some food together for me from the leftovers so I wouldn’t go without.
If you aren’t able to pay the $145, there is also the option to sleep in what is called “The Dungeon,” which apparently costs $6 a night. I think this might be sleeping on the floor in the dining room area, because I saw people sleeping there at night, but I cannot confirm this.
There are multiple bunk rooms on either side of the hut, each room holding 12 people. Being as late as I was, I had zero bunk selection and ended up at the highest point in the room. Fearing for my life as I peered over the side at the hardwood below, I slept glued to the wall all night.
A note about the word “hut.” To me, hut is the wrong word for these places, particularly Lake of the Clouds. It is more of a hiker haven. I kind of felt like I was at summer camp.
A huge building, many hikers gather and share stories from the trail. I met so many incredible people, hiking their own hike, sitting around the breakfast table, chatting over bacon and eggs and drinking coffee. People you immediately admire and who inspire you to strive for more.
After a long and extremely hard day on the trail, being surrounded by people who not only understand the pain in your shoulders from your pack but also admired you for what you were doing was nothing short of incredible.
Hiker’s create such a wonderful community, wherever they are, because we understand each other. We all get the hiker punishment we put ourselves through because we love the challenge and the way nature shakes us awake. How it exposes that raw side of you, that swears at the rocks and questions why you continue to do this to yourself.
That’s why you stay at places like this. Sure, you could camp, it’s certainly cheaper. And yeah, others will be camping around you but it’s a whole different thing. If the wind is howling over the White Mountains and it’s close to freezing your not going to be sitting outside you tent swapping blister stories.
I fully understand now why Lake of the Clouds Hut is a bucket list item for so many. If I were to do it all over again, I would stay here without question. It was worth the cost of admission, just to feel that community and the relaxed happiness emanating off everyone there.
