São Miguel island is the largest island of the 9 that make up the Azores Islands and one of the best places to visit for hiking, great food and stunning views. With direct flights available from Europe and the United States, it has never been easier to get to the Azores.
Start your adventures from the capital of Ponta Delgada and from there you can head to the eastern or western side of the island for very different experiences. This complete guide will show you the best way to make the most out of your time on São Miguel.
Western São Miguel
Best Hikes
One of the best things to do in São Miguel on a nice day (with the best time to visit being the summer months when there is less rain) is visit the west side of the island. Heading to Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) there are lots of hiking options with some incredible views.
Mata do Canário
For the best views into the Seven Cities, walk the rim around the Caldeira. An easy hike but a long one at 12km, make sure to bring water and maybe some snacks. There are so many photo opportunities that it can take you all day to get through this hike, just for that.
Drive past the Monte Palace Hotel area and just past the views of Sete Cidades is a small parking area on your left where you will begin your hike. Once you have hiked down into the heart of the town, you can grab lunch and then have a cab bring you back to your car.
Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel
When you look at images online of the area around the Seven Cities a constant image of an abandoned hotel comes up. This hotel was a luxury hotel at one time that went out of business. Now you can wander around this crumbling building, though you should definitely watch your step. This hotel is slated to have a face lift and reopen in the future.
Next to this hotel is a parking area where you can hike the Vista do Rei hike to get another vantage point on the side opposite the Mata do Canário hike.
Miradouro da Boca do Inferno
Surprisingly we never came across this hike. I am not sure why, most likely because we had other plans but this is the famous viewpoint you see everywhere. The most Instagrammable spot on the island and the view everyone comes to the Seven Cities to see.
Serra Devassa
We did this hike in the fog, making the whole thing kind of eerie. Following along the path you circle a pond that has a small building. It’s a pretty hike but mostly gravel walking and less trail, where you follow mainly work vehicle roads.
We couldn’t see anything during this hike, so I couldn’t tell you if the views are beautiful but it was kind of cool to walk through the fog.
Ponta Delgata Eats
The largest city of Ponta Delgata, with it’s narrow, cobblestone streets and iconic churches has grown recently thanks to tourism. Restaurants have popped up all around the city. In most cases you would crinkle your nose and politely say, “no thank-you,” but I assure you they have maintained quality and care. The restaurants are second to none.
From perfectly cooked steaks, to seafood, to the most amazing pineapple cake you really cannot go wrong, no matter where you choose. So, I am not going to list any restaurants in particular, because they really are that good. The photos explain it all.
Pineapple plantation
Just outside Ponta Delgata is the islands only pineapple plantation. You can tour the area for free, walking among the various greenhouses to see the pineapples in their different stages of growth.
Go inside the little gift shop to taste their homemade pineapple liqueur. This is a bit of a novelty and they don’t produce it in mass quantities for shipment it just makes a nice gift for that person watching your dog.
Thermal pools
Western São Miguel has several options for a warm soak in a beautiful setting. On the far shores is a small alcove where heated rocks warm the saltwater flowing in from the ocean.
This place is likely to be packed with people during low tide. Of course, you don’t want to go at any other time because it just doesn’t have the same effect. Nestled next to a spa, we didn’t pay a thing to bask in this little oasis but there were signs and info in our guidebook that said they did begin charging a fee.
There are showers and changerooms and a small convenience shop for snacks for creature comforts right next to the alcove. With ropes strung across the alcove you can float in the warm waters for hours, or at least until the tide comes in.
Eastern São Miguel
The eastern region of São Miguel has the most volcanic activity on the island. The ground itself burping up its sulphuric stench in places like the town of Furnas. With epic views and awe-inspiring hikes, you could spend your entire trip on the east coast of the island.
Furnas
There is lots to see around Furnas, though most have a cost. Below are my top things to do that are worth the money, and one freebie.
Cozido
If you’re a meat eater, this really is a must do, though some places also offer a vegetarian version. This might be considered the tourist thing to do, but it really is worth it.
A cozido is a meal consisting of various meats and vegetables cooked in a pot, underground, inside a caldeira. The caldeira provides its own unique flavor found nowhere else. Slightly sulphuric but absolutely amazing, the meats are so tender.
There are two recommended places in Furnas to get a cozido, Tony’s, which I would have never guessed sold great cozido, and the Terra Nostra Garden hotel. We chose the fancy hotel. Attached to the famous Terra Nostra Park, if you dine there you get free entry into the botanical gardens.
The cozido is brought out by several waiters, painstakingly laying out and explaining the various meats and vegetables. Then comes the rice and finally a tea pot full of the juice it was all cooked in, poured over the entire thing.
Azoreans on São Miguel have been cooking in these caldeiras for generations. You can go see them just outside of town, for a fee. Cooks bring their pots out very early in the morning, staking out their spot, letting the food cook in these stinking holes for 8 hours. And let me tell you they are perfection.
Terra Nostra Garden
With your free ticket in hand and a very full belly, you can head through the hotel out to the famous Terra Nostra Gardens, a main attraction in Furnas. The highlight of the gardens being the thermal pools, with the main house overlooking the main pool.
This mineral rich, burnt orange colored pool makes your skin super soft and stains your bathing suit but it’s warm and very relaxing. You can also sneak off to one of their side “hot tubs” for a quick soak.
The garden itself is broken into the various sections. Take a stroll along the well-maintained walking path and spend time seeing it all. It truly is a beautiful and peaceful place.
Caldeiras
Not only is there a place for cooking your cozido, in town, you can see just how alive the ground really is. Walking around there are different stinking pools burping and bubbling up out of the ground. With little taps at each spot you can taste the mineral infused water. It’s disgusting, I can assure you, but fun to try out.
Thermal Pools
This side of São Miguel has several options for a nice soak. One mentioned above, in the Terra Nostra Gardens, but there is also the hidden gem Caldeira Velha, a popular spot among locals and tourists alike, just north of Lagoa de Fogo (the Lake of Fire). This thermal pool will make you feel like you entered Jurassic Park.
Top Hikes in Eastern São Miguel
Pico de Vara
The highest point on the island, this is a must do for all you hikers out there. Set in a preserved forest you need to plan ahead for this one. You will need a permit to hike and you need the best day possible, and even then, you will most likely end up in a cloud.
For all the info on hiking Pico de Vara see my hike to the top.
Chá Gorreana
One of the only tea plantations on the São Miguel, a walking trail has been created around its entirety. Inside the factory you can see the tea leaves being processed and watch a video on the beginnings of the plantation.
Rota da Água – Janela do Inferno
One of the things I found about hiking on this island is the amount of time you spend walking along dirt roads. Not my ideal when it comes to a good hike, but this one had some really cool features worth checking out.
Bring a flashlight, or your phone, as you will walk through several tunnels with no light. It’s an eerie adventure suddenly being swallowed by darkness but an interesting feature.
Lagoa do Fogo
This, in my opinion, is the best hike of all the Azorean Islands. It’s one of the busiest hikes, because it’s just that beautiful and is considered moderate. This 5.5km (one way) route starts on a farm road that eventually enters into a beautiful cedar forest.
The cedar forest then becomes the crushing, dense forest of the typical flora of the Azores with an aquaduct sporting rainbow trout running beside the trail. Every turn is a photo opportunity before it all opens up to an area with sweeping cliffs around you and channels of the aquaduct with pretty white buildings. Though it is all for hydoelectric power it still is a stunning area.
Shortly after you arrive at the Lake of Fire. You can view the lake from multiple vantage points and there is a shorter trail on the other side of the lake that will take you down to a nice beach as well as a look-off just before that. But the hardwork of the hike is worth it because there are fewer people and pretty spectacular views.
Make sure you bring your swimsuit and take advantage of the pristine waters while your there!
Concluding Thoughts
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the centrally located town of Ribeira Grande. This surf town is a perfect place to stop for lunch, with incredibly fresh seafood and some of the best restaurants on the island (in my opinion).
It might be the biggest island in the Azores but the character and beauty make it one of the best islands to visit. If you are looking to easily book a trip to the Azores, I highly recommend Azores getaways (not an affiliate, I have just had great experiences with them every time I have gone to the Azores).
Heading to the Azores? Make sure to grab a copy of my guidebook The Azores: A guide for hikers.
