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The White Mountains of New Hampshire are a bucket list destination for a lot of people, particularly east coasters. With hikes along the Presidential Range and Franconia Ridge, the hiking here is some of the most beautiful and rugged in the east. It’s a hard go, don’t get me wrong, but if it’s on your list to hike all of the 4000 footers (and of course it’s on mine!), this post will help you get familiar with the gem of New Hampshire.
When I first considered hiking the White’s the first thing I did was buy the White Mountains guide and maps. It was my doorstep mile. My first tiny step towards hiking these rugged mountains. From there, you need some sort of hiking plan.
The weather conditions
The weather in the White Mountains is legendary to say the least. Some of the highest recorded wind speeds in the United States have been recorded from Mount Washington. So, yeah, they have high winds and can have bad weather.
When planning your trip, no matter which hiking trail you choose, check the weather multiple times before heading out. You can easily get stuck above treeline in gale force winds and zero visibility, a potentially serious situation.
So, for additional information on the weather in the area check out the mountain forecast. It has the most up to date weather for each peak.
Hiking trails
There are over 1200 miles of non-motorized trails in White Mountain National Forest with lots of feet of elevation gain and loss over a trek. So, there is lots to choose from. The two most popular being the Franconia Ridge scenic loop and the Presidential Traverse.
The Franconia Ridge loop trail is touted as the most scenic hike in the White Mountains and a great warm-up for anyone planning to tackle the Presidential Traverse trail (I did this backwards and I can see why people say this). The Franconia Ridge trail is a full day hike that’s 8.5 miles round-trip (actually in a loop) with incredible waterfalls. But don’t let it fool you, it is still an incredibly steep climb.
The Presidential Traverse is also a part of the Appalachian trail and is through some of the most rugged mountains and rocky terrain in the Whites. There are several AMC huts you can stay at along the way (see below for more details) and it is recommended to hike over 3-4 days in order to get the most out of the experience (I did it in 2 days and definitely wished I had more time).
Camping and Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) backcountry huts
Within the White Mountain National Forest there are a ton of options for camping. There’s tent sites located in established campgrounds, dispersed camping and group camping areas. There are also cabin rentals in various areas of the national forest and shelter locations, such as the Appalachian Mountain Club backcountry huts.
The AMC huts are a great place to spend the night. I highly recommend the Lake of the Clouds hut along the Presidential Traverse. It is high up in the mountains, close to the summit of Mount Washington and the views are spectacular. It’s also a good halfway point if you do decide to hike the traverse over 2 days.
It can be hard to get below the treeline to find a camping area during your trek, though there are dispersed camping areas along many of the routes. All sites (whether dispersed or established) need to be booked ahead of time through recreation.gov. Make sure to check out the White Mountain National Forest site to see what camping options are available for the time of year you plan to visit (the real challenge is to hike all the 4000 footers in both summer and winter months).
If camping, cabins or mountain huts are not of interest to you, there is also the AMC’s highland center, a huge lodge at Crawford Notch that is also a shuttle pickup location and a great place to park your car if you plan to hike the Presidential Traverse.
Pro Tip: One of my favorite ways to camp is using Hipcamp.com. I have now stayed at campsites in multiple states and have had some of the best experiences from basic campsites on someone’s property to glamping in domes outside Great Smoky Mountain National Park. It’s like Airbnb for people who prefer to camp.
The Notches
It can be confusing figuring out the best starting point for your hike but many can be found from a couple of areas I am going to call the Notches.
Within the White Mountain National forest are various state parks that designate different areas, including Crawford Notch State Park and Franconia Notch State Park. Each provides access to various different trailheads and mountain ranges, such as the presidential range and the Franconia range.
Pinkham notch is a mountain pass that provides access to the Pinkham Notch trailhead (duh) with access to the east side of the Presidential terrain.
Scenic destinations
The most popular scenic destination is of course Mount Washington. The highest peak in the eastern states at 6,288 feet, it is an extremely popular summer destination. You can drive up to the top, hike to the top or take the cog railway up to the top. There you will find an observatory, where you can get a tour of the weather station, a gift shop, and a museum.
Though the other mountains require you to hike in, Mount Washington gives everyone the opportunity to check out the higher elevation views no matter your age or ability. I think this is pretty great but also gets pretty crowded and for some may take away from the overall hiking experience. It’s definitely an experience, just a different one than you would expect in this rugged range.
Concluding Thoughts
Whether your goal is to hike the 4000 footer list, tackle the Presidential Traverse, or day hike the Franconia Notch trail, there is no shortage of adventure in White Mountains National Forest.
It is my favorite place on the east coast, a place that when driving between New Jersey (where I used to live) and Nova Scotia (where I’m originally from) I always made an excuse to stop at for a couple days. It’s tough hiking there, the terrain is rocky and the weather can change on a dime. You should never take the Whites lightly, but the place is absolute magic and a must hike.
If you are planning to hike the Presidential Traverse trail, staying at the AMC huts along the way, make sure to grab your printable Packing Checklist for the Presidential Traverse.
