Discovering Vancouver Island

Sharing is caring!

“Listen to the wind, it talks. Listen to the silence, it speaks. Listen to your heart, it knows.” – Native American Proverb

Vancouver Island has so much to offer from its quaint towns to its glorious nature and rich heritage, there is literally something for everyone here. But British Columbia is probably best known for its outdoors mentality and laid-back attitude.

To reach Vancouver Island from the mainland you can either take the ferry (I recommend this) or you can take a short float plane ride from downtown Vancouver, one of the many things to do in Vancouver, directly into Nanaimo (no thank you, but lots of people do it). The ferry gives you a slow, relaxed tour from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo, with snowcapped mountains surrounding you and seals playing in the harbor.

Nanaimo is the perfect town to start you tour, with its unique shops (I highly recommend a Wee Cupcakery, hands down the best cupcakes I have ever eaten…ever) and friendly people it’s hard not love this town. From there the island opens up to you like a flower. These are some of my favorite things to do on Vancouver Island, though I know there is so much more to explore.

Juan de Fuca Provincial Park

This park is on the south west coast of Vancouver Island and boasts spectacular scenery, great hiking and some fantastic wildlife viewing. You have the option of taking the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, which follows 47km of wilderness along the western shoreline of the island. During this hike you can stop at several beaches and set up camp.

We were not able to experience the trail in this way but there are several points along the trail where you can gain access by car. This gives you a taste of the trail without doing the entire 47 km. Our main goal for our visit was to experience botanical beach at the northern most point of the park.

We got up early to ensure we arrived at low tide and on the scenic drive there were greeted with a herd of elk moving across the road. Upon arriving at the beach, you will bear witness to rich tide pools teaming with life and shoreline trails with impressive geological features.

Whilst exploring the tide pools you will get the opportunity to see starfish and sea urchins of various colors, white gooseneck barnacles, blue mussels, sea cucumbers and anemones. The BC parks website recommends visiting when low tide is 1.2 meters or less for best viewing.

This area was so much fun to explore as you leap from one pool to the next, taking in the vivid colors of the flora and fauna within, and scaling some of the rock formations that surround the beach.

Other stops that I would recommend, if driving through the park, include China Beach and Mystic Beach. Locals go to these areas to relax and spend the day. You can also access the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail from these locations and get an idea what the hiking would be like. And let me tell you it is breathtaking.

With the ocean at your back you enter the rich, vibrant green within the woods. The cool air immediately surrounds you and the world goes quiet. I hope to head back someday and hike the entirety of this trail, because I had a taste of it, which has turned into a severe craving.

Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park

This is a fun day trip, that is less intense than hiking the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. You take a small passenger ferry over to this little island that boasts totem poles, some easy hiking, picnic areas, and views of the bay.

This island may be small but it is home to a rich native heritage that people have been exploring since the 1930s. Indian middens are evidence of at least two Salish First Nations villages, which were deserted before the discovery of coal in the area in 1849. In 1931 the island was bought by the Canadian Pacific Steamship Company, who operated it for a time as a pleasure resort.

You can wander around the 22 km of hiking trails and discover the history on the island and the native wildlife living there. And if you can find it, the albino raccoon (we didn’t find it). From various points on the trail you also get views of the seals sunning themselves on the rocky outcroppings in the bay and views of downtown Nanaimo.

Mount Benson Regional Park

The Mount Benson loop is an 8 km, strenuous hiking trail that summits with panoramic views overlooking the area. You can access the trail from the Witchcraft Lake Regional Trail, which is a 2 km long trail developed to provide access to the Mount Benson loop.

This trail provides a reprieve from the daily town life, with quiet wilderness crushing in around you. There are some large rock formations along the trail and a steep and steady climb up to the summit. But the summit is completely worth it. The views are breathtaking, if you happen to have any breath left from the ascent to the summit, and it feels like you found your own slice of paradise without insane crowds of people.

Cathedral Grove

This is my favorite place on the island, and possibly in the entire country. The Cathedral Grove website calls it “a rare and endangered remnant of an ancient Douglas fir ecosystem.” The largest trees in the grove are over 800 years old and measure 75 meters in height and 9 meters in circumference. And boy are they impressive.

As soon as you enter the trail looping around the grove you can feel the magic of the place, as if the trees are speaking to you. I cannot describe the ancient, knowing feeling you get when you enter that grove. The vibrant greens assaulting your eyes and the cool air kissing your face. It immediately makes you feel small and yet completely at ease all at once.

These trees are the survivors of a major forest fire that occurred over 350 years ago and the massive invasion of the Europeans who colonized the island in 1849. The trees stand sentinel over the area and are a reminder of nature’s resilience, strength and beauty. I cannot put into words just how much I love this place and the feel of being one with those ancient trees when you enter into their territory.

Tofino

This town has what I would consider a California feel. It’s a little surf town, where locals go to catch some big waves. It’s known for its beaches, lakes, inlets and ancient forests. The colorful buildings, cafes, and surf shops gives it a great vibe.

I would not, however, recommend going in August. Locals call it fogust for a reason. We went, knowing this, but it was one of the few opportunities we had to check out this fun town. And boy was it ever foggy. The place was practically deserted and the fog was so thick it gave the whole area an eerie otherworldly feel.

We went out and explored the beach but if you weren’t careful, you could easily get turned around and lost, it was that foggy. But everyone you ask recommends visiting Tofino and so do I, fog and all.

Butchart Gardens

While you enjoy the beautiful town of Victoria (I would totally live here, it’s so beautiful) you should definitely drive to Butchart Gardens. This display was designated a world heritage site in 2004 and ranked as one of the top display gardens in the world by USA Today, CNN and National Geographic.

There are so many different areas to see in this massive garden, including the Sunken Garden, with its central rock mound and immense Ross Fountain, the Rose Garden, with its many rose varieties, a frog fountain, wishing well, and as you exit the garden a huge bronze Sturgeon Fountain, cast in Florence, Italy. There is also the Japanese Garden, filled with streams, ponds and bridges, the Italian Garden, and the Mediterranean Garden.

This garden is an absolute feast for the senses, with a plethora of flowers, fountains, walking paths and statues. And it’s dog friendly! You can easily spend a whole day in this garden and it is definitely worth the price of admission (ranging from $18-$33 for adults, depending on the time of year).

Stamp River Provincial Park

This area has some fantastic hiking with beautiful waterfalls, but you really need to visit this area in August. This is when thousands of Sockeye, Coho and Chinook salmon migrate up the waters, either jumping up the falls or navigating the fish ladders on the way to their spawning grounds. Here you will see thousands of fish. It’s a great migration you really shouldn’t miss, just to experience the magnitude and majesty of nature and stand in awe at what these fish accomplish to reach the spawning grounds.

Strathcona Provincial Park

I highly recommend camping here. Strathcona is the oldest provincial park in British Columbia. The area is surrounded by a rugged wilderness with snow-capped mountains. You can be hiking up into the mountains in the middle of the summer and still hit snow, so be prepared.

There are two main areas in the park that are more developed, the Buttle Lake area and Forbidden Plateau, the rest is pretty undeveloped. If you enjoy getting out into the wilderness, miles away from other people, this is the place to be.

The history of this park begins with volcanic eruptions on ancient seafloors, land movement and ice flows helped shape the area. And the wilderness is truly wild and unforgiving. The park offers short, easy strolls, to day hikes, to mountaineering, each with its own taste of the wilderness.

There are so many things to explore on Vancouver Island and a rich history with kind people. Have you been there? What was your favorite thing about Vancouver Island?